Having said our farewell the previous night, we left Mgarr Harbour at 5.30 am, without fuss and waving. The previous 5 days had been very windy from the North West, with disturbed seas. Therefore we took the view that we would go in the direction that was most comfortable. Going North, after leaving Malta, turned out well. The sea had calmed down, and a gentle breeze allowed us the luxury of some sailing. We decided to go as far West a possible and after 31 hours we moored in Mazara Del Vallo. We will have to visit Pantelleria another time.
Chris had been last year to Mazara, the most important fishing port in Sicily and he thought it compared favourably to the other southern ports in Sicily. I, obviously, expected more and was unimpressed by it. The next day we sailed to Flavignana, one of the Egardi Island, called the butterfly of Sicily (viewed from the air). We were nearly caught in tuna fishing nets and had to skirt the bay a long way. It is a pretty little place, with a chic square. Strangely enough in the town there is a large walled prison. The tourist industry has had a revival lately and inmates and upmarket tourists seem to get along. Tuna is very important to the economy of the Island and on 9th June, islanders will be celebrating their Mattanza (the slaughtering of the trapped tunas) The island will be full of visitors for this bloody event. We shall give the activities a wide berth, but we did purchase tuna to cook, as Chris had caught a tuna (about 5 kilos) but it got away as he was pulling it in. We enjoyed walking to the South part of Flavignana. On our return to Scorch the wind got up and turned, making our stay very uncomfortable. It was time to go, and we had a cracking sail to Trapani.
Stunning views over the Gulf
impressive Castle and Fortress
Not forgetting the patient donkey
Trapani. with its Arabic influence, reflect the mixed history of this part of Sicily. Catching the cable car we visited Erice on the summit of Mte. S Giuliano and had a real treat. The village with its castle and cobbled streets is beautiful and the views of the surrounding sea and coast are fantastic. In Greek times mariners revered the town for its temple of Aphrodite.
Chris liked driving a brand new Lancia Ypsilon, which we hired for the day. Our 400 km proved most enjoyable. The north West side of Sicily was more beautiful than expected with varied contrasts. Montreal, 8 km, south west of Palermo, has a rather severe, square-towered exterior 12th century Cathedral, though handsome enough, it is no preparation for what is inside; the most impressive and extensive area of Christians medieval mosaic work in the world. The sheer size and colour of the work was mind blowing.
Narrow street, not for the faint hearted drivers
Hill top villages
En route to Corleone, the nest of Sicily’s most notorious mafia family, we came across Ficuzza, a forested area of great beauty. We saw a jay and a pairs of hawks. We picnicked sitting among some colourful flora and felt totally at peace. We climbed the twisted roads to Prizzi and we imagined that we could have been in Tuscany with its hill top villages, undulating landscape and thin Cyprus trees. Driving the very narrow streets of these villages can give driver and passenger few tense moments.
We can’t understand why and how these places, full of inhabitants, are there and survive. If it was France in Provence, they would be full of tourists, but not here. We were fodder for the locals to ogle!….
We got back to the boat in time to invite fellow yachties to drinks and reflect on a very successful day. Also glad to be alive. Sicilian’s drivers are as unruly as mainland Italians. Even the sixty year olds behave like uncontrolled teenagers.
All being well tomorrow we sail for Sardinia.
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