3 WEEKS GONE

It is amazing how quickly time passes when one is enjoying oneself. Our friend Caroline came to stay aboard. We collected her in Grenada. She acclimatized to the weather and the lifestyle over the 5 days it took to reach Carriacou (30nm), the country cousin to Grenada, with its relaxed pace of life. Each night we stopped at an idyllic and secluded anchorage apart from hectic St. Georges, Grenada’s Capital. The attractive Colonial town, nestling in the hillside above a horseshow shaped harbour. We were there on Independence Day a bank- holiday week-end. Sadly the normally lively market was closed. The town was quiet but Caroline still appreciated its colonial Architecture and its Mediterranean feel.

We thought of leaving Carriacou on Sunday but Carnival Week-end got in the way. Both Customs and Immigration were closed. We took the shared bus, driven at a frantic pace, to the picturesque Village of Windward where the descendants of the original Scottish settlers still build traditional sailing sloops on the beach. In the past they were used for trading but now raced in the Classic Regattas up and down the chain of Caribbean Islands. They have become a must have item for any self respecting Rock Star. On our previous trip to the village we met Wensley McClarence who his building his life’s dream, in the tradition of his great Grand Father. He hopes to finish it for July’s Antigua Classic Regatta. Its name and colour will not be revealed before then. The whole village will turn up to help with launching. He offered to take Chris racing but we shall be in Europe.

We spent a couple of hours lazing in Petit Carenage, facing Petite Martinique and Saint Vincent.All alone on a magnificent white sand beach backed by Palm trees.

Before Christmas Chris and I went to an Evangelical Church service. The happy singing and healing service was different and lasted 2 ½ hours. Chris declined when I suggested Caroline might enjoy the cultural experience. We took the free Church bus (an experience in itself) which took us on an Island tour collecting worshippers. The incumbent, Pastor Happy, was on a 3 months leave to Nigeria. We thought him pretty extreme when we met him but nothing to compare with his locum. The singing, the clapping and swaying knew no restraint. A few women went into trance during the healing session whilst the Pastor spoke in tongues and tapped his feet in frenzy. It all felt very tribal! 4 hours later we got back to the boat in need of a Rum Punch......

After Grenada, on our way to Union, we visited Petit St. Vincent a very pleasant experience. Of course we stopped at Mopion Island for a photo shoot.

We moved on to the famous Tobago Cays; the numerous deserted islands protected from the sea by a spectacular horseshoe reef. It is now a National Park controlled by rangers. The snorkelling in a kaleidoscope of gold, brown, blue and aqua green was amazing. We swam at close quarters with the Green Turtles, a southern stingray and Nurse Shark (too fast to photograph).

Mustique, a fantasy Island, made famous by Princess Margaret was our next anchorage. We had sundowners in the famous Basil’s Bar (devoid of the famous that day!) We were advised by Trigo, our taxi driver, one of the 200 Island Natives (born and bred in Mustique) that we should go with him to the Friday night Bar-B-Q in his village. The evening was not spoiled by the heavy rain (the first seen in months). The King fish was delicious and the Reggae very pleasant. The next day Trigo took us on an Island tour to see how the rich and famous live! The Island is beautifully groomed.... but we have seen more beautiful beaches. I went back aboard clutching my £5 cos lettuce.

Bequia was our next stop. True to its description, it is isolated enough to be relatively unspoilt yet lively enough to be stimulating and entertaining. Its colourful main street, with its vendors by the roadside and pleasant range of small boutiques makes meandering a pleasure.

The Island is a whaling post and is allowed to take 4 whales a year. The season is between February/April. Apparently it is a rare occurrence and I am pleased to report there was no whaling done when we were there.

Time was ticking on. We had to be in St. Lucia for Caroline’s return to UK. We by-passed St. Vincent because of the current security issues, but we caught 4 fishes (2 got away). Sushi for lunch was a dream.

We had 8 hours of Champagne sailing, despite the fears of the Captain, who thought we could be motoring with wind and waves on the nose. It turned out a great finale for Caroline who is a keen and experienced sailor. We cleared Customs in Vieux Fort, a commercial Port. A customs Officer took us to the Immigration Dept. at the Airport in his car, all very civilized. Caroline had a preview of where she would be flying from.
Only 2 days left so we decided to move on to the famous Pitons. On the way we caught a Barracuda, which we steamed Chinese style for dinner (a delicious white meat). The scenic wonderland dominated by the towering twin Pitons is impressive and of exceptional beauty. It is said the Pitons are one of the top 10 sights one must see before one dies!....

On Caroline’s last day we snorkelled early, had a forest walk in the Jalousie Plantation and a Pinacolada in their magnificent beach bar. Chris cooked an excellent curry after which we had a rest in the hammocks before a final punch back at the hotel prior to the taxi transfer at 17.30pm

Where had the past 3 weeks gone? We were so sorry to see Caroline leaving and we look forward to her next visit.