Pelourinho
Many buildings have only their façade left. Many parts of the old city are crumbling.
The African legacy is sampled in the food. The local cuisine, spicy and based on seafood (shrimp, fish), strongly relies on typically African ingredients and techniques, and is much appreciated throughout Brazil and internationally. The most typical ingredient is azeite-de-dendê, an oil extracted from a palm tree (Elaeis guineensis) brought from West Africa to Brazil during colonial times.
Using the milky coconut juice they prepared a variety of seafood based dishes, such as Ensopados, Moquecas and Escabeche. The sugar cane bagasse was mixed with molasses and Rapadura, in the creation of coconut desserts like Cocada Branca and Preta. The remaining of the Portuguese Stew sauce was mixed with manioc flour to make a mush, which is a traditional Indian dish. In the amazing markets of Salvador, it is possible to find stands selling typical and delicious dishes of the colonial era but eventuallyafter eating the same type of food for months we began to described it as splodge. The brazilian meat is good and tender, but after a while we were craving for vegetables and salads.
Fruit vendors
fancy a coconut
Abundance of exotic fruits
sugar can juice-press
The result… Fancy a drink?
The music is a mixture of african beats and very lively. Bahia is a hot cauldron of rhythms and musical styles and very noisy but at the same time so catching that we invariably want to dance.
Some good Rhythm!
Capoeira is a unique mix of dance and martial art of Afro-Brazilian origin, combining agile dance moves with unarmed combat techniques. Its origins go back to the times of slavery, and Salvador is considered the centre of modern capoeira . In the first half of the 20th century, Salvador-born masters Mestre Bimba and Mestre Pastinha founded capoeira schools and helped standadise and popularise the art in Brazil and the world. Capoeira practices are accompanied by special music and songs. Musical instruments used in capoeira music include the caxixi, atabaque,nd berimbau and percusion instruments of African origin
Over 80% of the population of the metropolitan region of Salvador have some Black African ancestry. The African influence in many cultural aspects of the city makes it the center of Afro-Brazilian culture. Brazil is a vast Country and if in your mind you can divide it into three parts, the South is of European descent and look, the Middle part West African, and in the North are the Amazonian Indians.
In Salvador religion is a major contact point between European and African influences. Salvador was the seat of the first bishopric in colonial Brazil (established 1551), and the first bishop, Pero Fernandes Sardinha, arrived already in 1552. The Jesuits, led by the Manuel da Nóbrega, also arrived in the 16th century and worked to convert the Indigenous peoples of the region to Roman Catholicism. Christians once associated Pagan deities with the saints, enslaved Africans in Bahia transformed their faiths into a form of religion that still attempts to please both their own roots and the faith imposed by their masters Therfore, up to today, even nominal Catholics take part in Candomblé rituals in the terreirosor "centros". Candomblé is based on the cult of the Orishas (Orixás), like Obatala (Oxalá), father of humankind; Ogoun (Ogum), god of the war and iron; Yemanja (Iemanjá), goddess of the sea, rivers and lakes.
In Brazil, especially in Bahia, it came up as a solution for the slaves who were prohibited to practice their religion so they pretended to be worshiping catholic saints while in reality they were venerating their own deities. Hence, associating an orixá (Candoblé deity) to a catholic was a strategy used by black people to keep their beliefs and rituals alive, while they fooled their masters, making them believe that their devotion was to the catholic saints.
Salvador de Bahia boasts to have 365 churches (one for everyday of the year)
Two of the 365
It also has some fascinating musuems.
We thouroughly enjoyed exploring and discovering this buzzing city, with its friendly and easygoing population. We did not feel threatened at anytime but when ever we went out at night, we took a taxi.
Overlooking the Marina
Nice paintings
Week-end travellers/party ravers
Colourful shops
She was waiting for customers but posed for me instead!
Amazing Dance display
Unbelievable what can be done with old bottles
The street children’s plight was heart rending. When asked for money, we never gave, instead we would take them to the local baker and buy food. We always made sure they thanked the shop staff and us. We watched them eat, at a distance, making sure they eat in peace, without fear of the older children stealing their food, but most of the time they willingly shared with others. A lesson to us all!
Marcello, Mr. Fix it and negociator gave us some frustrating and annoying moments. He charged European prices but gave a 3rd world product. He is looking to be the next millionaire! We are still sorting out the messy legacy he left behind. Many dissatisfied customers were chasing him before we left Salvador. But he could be charming. His lovely wife took us shopping one morning, despite the language barrier, and through sign language and drawings we had a hilarious time.
Working hard on the boat at temperatures of 38º did not improve frayed tempers.
The bustle and hustle of Salvador.
The beaches around the coast of Salvador are beautiful. Long streches of white/golden sand with mangroves and cocanut palms in the background. The beaches are seldom full but the sun worshipers, particularly the locals are totally uninhibited. Nudity is a no no in Brazil but flesh exposure regarless of the lack or excess of it is a pastime. The dental floss bikini is a must item. Picture the scene……..
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