Many boats had the added problems of crew changes. Chris and I choose and prefer to travel solo We work well as a team.. It seems to us a huge gamble to take on board unknown crew selected through the internet forum or to spoil a long standing friendships. Sadly such contretemps happened regularly during the Rally. At least we only have each other to blame if things go wrong, less washing and cooking but also less sleep as the watches are divided only by 2.
George’s announcement that she needed a second back operation floored us totally and the anxiety of the ocean crossing flew out of the window. The reassurance of Paul (our surgeon friend who performed the 1st op) and the insistence of everyone for us to carry on with our plans totally shifted our emotions vis a vis the crossing. Therefore 3 days late (after we were convinced all was in place and organised for George’s op) we lifted anchor and pointed Scorch in the direction of Salvador not thinking of the 2 weeks ahead
When leaving Dakar the sea had a wallowing motion, not the best for me but with a patch behind the ear (1st time) it was tolerable. The first few days Chris cooked the prepared meals and we settled into an agreeable routine. No wine or coffee for me during a passage (liver rejection!) but I crave for salt therefore crisps, marmite toasties etc. are a great favourite (I gather it is a fairly common reaction among poor sailors). In contrast the Captain had his beer at regular interval and he needed his hearty meals. We eat early before dark and settled Scorch for night sailing often with one reef in the main in readiness for my watch at 24.00. I try to get 4 hours sleep before my midnight call. Usually Chris takes over at 4 am, but depending on how it goes we can both be flexible. I have to admit that Chris puts in longer hours as I sleep a lot at sea. I am in awe and envious of people who can read, write, use the computer etc at sea, in fact lead a normal life…… One of the biggest problems during long passages is BOREDOM!
One sees lot of sea and fantastic skies during a passage
Rain storm approaching. It is wise during such moments to reduce sails and go below. Rain drops can be painful!
We kept daily radio contact not only with the Rally members at 11 am and 21 pm but with friends, at 12 pm, who were crossing a different route to us, from Canaries to the Caribbean following in the wake of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers. They are known are the NARC (not the Arc) They had a more difficult passage with 25 to 35 knots wind and high seas. One boat was abandoned and its crew rescued.
It made us feel we were not alone particularly as we did not see another boat until we reached the Brazilian coast. It was also entertaining listening to the French members of the Rally exchanging recipes, comparing the catch of the day and concerned about their next meal. We did not do much fishing: in my book fish and queasiness do not go well together!
We kept in touch with the family on a daily basis using our Iridium phone. We spoke to Paul, the surgeon, immediately after the operation and celebrated its success on the day we crossed the equator.
The wonders of modern technology! I have to confess that we would not be living this sea gypsy lifestyle if we could not keep regular contact with the children, family and friends.
Celebrating a successful operation.
Neptune boarded during our 1st crossing of the Equator
A fearsome creature!
as custom demands the crew was tarred and feathered
Crossing the line we overshot the picture by 3m
The Doldrums (no wind) north of the equator lasted about 3 days. Some people (purists) are quite happy to move at about 3 knots an hour but I am not one of them. The motion was not too pleasant either therefore the skipper was encouraged to start the engine. My argument is that fuel is cheaper than sails as in these conditions the boom starts swinging from one side to the other and the sails flap a great deal
A very relaxed skipper
Performing Dolphines
This little fellow claimed a lift
We saw very little marine life during the our passage
After 14 days at sea we saw the Brazilian coast! Although very happy to have achieved the crossing, we could have carried on much longer but of course we have to say the weather and sea condition had been very kind to us!
our 1st glimpse of Salvador de Bahia
We were welcomed on arrival by fireworks and a great crowd; a very moving moment
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backing towards our mooring, on 20th December, 2007 at 10.30am – 15days and 5hrs after leaving Dakar!
Welcomed by a Traditionally dressed Lady
Not forgetting the famous Caipirinha drink (White rum with fresh lime and sugar)
Cachaca (white rum) has inspired many famous Brazilian songs. We became addicted to the drink. Very refreshing in the heat!
Cachaca (white rum) has inspired many famous Brazilian songs. We became addicted to the drink. Very refreshing in the heat!
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