An intimidating sight
Better a treat
The Committee, always at hand to give advice, recommended strongly that Santo Antão, the most northern Island of the Cape Verdes, was a must. “One of the most beautiful place in the world for its scenery and its people” said a well-travelled member. Such recommendation could not be by-passed.
Armed with our walking boots and rucksacks we had to decide on which mode of transport; The fast Catamaran or the colourful cheaper version (the guide book suggested wearing black bags on you feet for protection, and never put any luggage on the floor as the straight between the islands are always rough and people sea sick). The Catamaran won!…
Santo Antão was a wonder with the terrain constantly changing, from Moonscape appearance on arrival to tropical green valleys at the crater (1979m). Like all the islands in the Archipelago it is volcanic in origin, but due to its greater rainfall it is the most productive island agriculturally in the entire group. Luxembourg has a special affinity with Santo Antão and paid for a new hospital, 3 colleges and the electricity infrastructure.
Six of us clambered in the taxi for the 2h ride across the Island to our B & B. The cobbled roads built by the Portuguese in 1966, are amazing but sore bum making.
Chris and I were dropped at the top and walked 4h1/2 to the guesthouse run by an amazing French couple. An example to us all; they decided to build a magnificent house late in their retirement 3 yrs ago on a virgin and fairly difficult environment. Remember that water is at a premium in the Cape Verde. One of Norberd’s many hobbies is horticulture (his knowledge of the Latin names leaves me speechless and too much for my memory to cope with) and Martine’s culinary skills are so that we had Cordon Blue meals morning and evening for 3 days. They were perfect hosts and a wonderful source of the local life knowledge. They made Santo Antao even more special for us
Narrow path
Steep decent
Two local lads carrying supplies
Terraced gardens
A busy littl port
Martine's dipping pool
The Keeper's cottage
The next day we took on one of the most famous of the walks. We walked from the Cova de Paul crater through the Paul Valley to the sea (6h1/2). Words are inadequate to express how we felt. The pictures tell their own stories
Crater's cultivation
An early start: still in the clouds
A long way down
It is the only way...
The flora is aboundant
The people beautiful and friendly
The washing lines are so colourful
innovative drying method
An extraordinary landscape
Pretty houses
We could hardly walk the last mile. We had the John Wayne gait to a T.
We stopped at the local grog factory (local alcoholic drink) sampling various flavour hoping it would revive the body and mind! An hour later the mind was beginning to focus but the body was not responding.
A powerful taste
Day 3. We let the wheels of the Aluguer do most of the walking. Our driver took us on a coastal viewpoint, Ponta de Sol. We decided to loosen the joints and walked to the hill village, Fontainhas, to yet more delights (Sadly foreign investors have already bought the entire village, a common occurrence in the CV: greed will seep through all life). The consolation is that the geography of this wonderful island is such that the infrastructure, if it can be achieve, will take years safeguarding against mass tourism ruining the place, its friendly and open people.
Mountain village
Spectacular coast
A rock (An old man overseeing all!)
A colourful bar
Catch of the day
We walked the Ribeira Grande Valley on our last day. Although we felt that perhaps we had sampled most of the Island, we suddenly realised that in fact we could lose a couple of months here quite happily. An artist’s dream! Chris suggesting that, at last, he would be left in peace to sit and ponder…
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